Raevenfea

Maker of various fabric things

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Posts tagged: Exhibits

Palimpsests and Politics and Preservation

Detail of “Dresden,” Maggy Rozycki Hiltner, 2016. Over-dyed cotton quilt, linen, cotton. Photo by Rachael Arnold.

Posted in Quilting

  • Art
  • Exhibits

When I dropped off my welcome blanket donation at MODA, I stopped in to see the current exhibit, “Making Change: The Art and Craft of Activism”. I’d heard about the exhibit in a post by Chawne Kimber, as her quilt “The One for Eric G” is in the show—in fact, it’s one of the first artworks you see. It was great to see her work up close (those incredibly consistent hand stitches! that precision piecing! the subtle movement and inclusion of color that just isn’t apparent in an online photo of the full quilt!), but my attention was grabbed by two other quilts in the show, and I kept walking back to them to study in depth.

From afar, the two quilts look incredibly different, but it was their commonalities that captured my attention, and have kept my mind coming back to them even now, a week later. The main commonality between the two is their use of antique quilts as a base for appliquĂŠ. And while they both had a message about war, destruction, and death, it wasn’t their political message that caused a visceral reaction for me. That reaction was caused by the potential destruction to the original quilts.

“Treaty With the Cherokee 1794,” Gina Adams, 2015. Antique quilt, hand cut calico letters, cotton thread. Photo by Rachael Arnold.
“Treaty With the Cherokee 1794,” Gina Adams, 2015. Antique quilt, hand cut calico letters, cotton thread. Photo by Rachael Arnold.

First was “Treaty With the Cherokee 1794” by Gina Adams, which is double-sided. I saw the front of the piece first, which is the back of the original quilt, so it wasn’t immediately obvious what the base medium was. In this artwork, the artist has appliquĂŠd the words of a treaty onto an Irish Chain quilt with a solid backing fabric. On the spectrum of destroying the original quilt, this one is somewhat minimal. I don’t know whether Adams used an adhesive on her letters, but in theory, the stitching and appliquĂŠ pieces could be removed and the quilt would be returned to its unaltered format. If anything, the stitching might even have stabilized the quilt, as you can see a few places where there are holes through all the layers. My mind plays more with the “what ifs” on this on. What if Adams had used a quilt that was actually contemporary to the treaty instead of one that likely dates to the 1860s at the earliest (there are far fewer extant quilts from the 18th century)? What if she had used a quilt that was a less common pattern than an Irish Chain, used a pattern without as much representation in various antique collections? Would those cause more of a reaction on my part, making me mourn the loss of the original quilt? On the flip side, I think the piece would be even more impactful if Adams had used a quilt that was more befitting the style and tastes of 18th century than a design so timeless that it could have been made any time from the early-mid 19th century to now. What if she was able to use something more closely resembling a blanket that could have been traded between the parties involved in the treaty negotiations?

Detail of “Treaty With the Cherokee 1794,” Gina Adams, 2015. Antique quilt, hand cut calico letters, cotton thread. Photo by Rachael Arnold.
Detail of “Treaty With the Cherokee 1794,” Gina Adams, 2015. Antique quilt, hand cut calico letters, cotton thread. Photo by Rachael Arnold.

So I think that’s the core of it—I don’t mourn the loss of an antique quilt, in this case, but the opportunities left unaddressed.

“Dresden,” Maggy Rozycki Hiltner, 2016. Over-dyed cotton quilt, linen, cotton. Photo by Rachael Arnold.
“Dresden,” Maggy Rozycki Hiltner, 2016. Over-dyed cotton quilt, linen, cotton. Photo by Rachael Arnold.

“Dresden” by Maggy Rozycki Hiltner is my favorite piece in the exhibit from a graphic standpoint. But, it’s also the one that leaves me most torn based on the execution. The artist took a gifted Dresden Plate quilt (likely circa 1920-30), overdyed it with black dye, then appliquĂŠd skeletal figures over the top. From afar, you don’t see the textures of the underlying dresden plate blocks. It’s only once you are close that you begin to see the variations in blacks as piecing, coupled with wear and tear on the antique quilt. I wondered if the woman who gifted Hiltner with the quilt knew its eventual fate, and if not, would she have done so with that knowledge? There’s no going back from the overdying process—the quilt as it once was can never again exist.

Detail of “Dresden,” Maggy Rozycki Hiltner, 2016. Over-dyed cotton quilt, linen, cotton. Photo by Rachael Arnold.
Detail of “Dresden,” Maggy Rozycki Hiltner, 2016. Over-dyed cotton quilt, linen, cotton. Photo by Rachael Arnold.

In contrast, I saw some of Kara Walker’s lithographs a few weeks ago at the High Museum of Art. Her works are also palimpsest-type pieces: reproduction lithographs from the American Civil War era coupled with cut paper silhouettes simultaneously enhancing, obscuring, and contextualizing a broader story to the original work. These works didn’t invoke the same visceral reaction as the two quilts, especially “Dresden”. Although it wasn’t 100% clear to me at the time, the lithographs are reproductions, not originals (although I made assumptions based on lack of discoloring and print quality). Perhaps it’s that paper prints are easily reproducible—even if you destroy one, there are surely other copies floating around. Perhaps it’s my lack of personal connection to the craft. Perhaps it was my subconscious making the call that the lithographs were clearly reproductions before my research verified it.

Three works from the Harper’s Pictorial History of the Civil War (Annotated) series, Kara Walker, 2005. Offset lithograph with screenprint. Photo by Rachael Arnold.
Three works from the Harper’s Pictorial History of the Civil War (Annotated) series, Kara Walker, 2005. Offset lithograph with screenprint. Photo by Rachael Arnold.

Collectors and curators can’t save every piece of art or craft. Part of collecting is making decisions on what to purge from a collection if you’ve procured a similar piece that is a better representation of the collection’s aim. In that mindset, not every antique quilt is worth saving, and given the prolific creation of both Irish Chain and Dresden Plate quilts, it’s unlikely that either of these originals was collection-worthy as is. Yet, could the same message have been achieved with a reproduction created specifically for the project, like with Walker’s lithographs?

In the end, this is why quilts are art. We ask these questions. We search for meaning. We may read more meaning into a piece than the artist intended. And to answer my own question, maybe it’s okay that both of these pieces used antique quilts. In “Treaty,” an otherwise non-special quilt is elevated in a way that neither fully obscures the original workmanship, and potentially preserves the stability of it. In “Dresden,” the dye obscures the one attribute of the quilt that might have set it apart from others—the printed fabric—but that destruction in itself echoes the destruction of countless other quilts buried by the rubble of Dresden’s bombing.

And maybe you’ll answer that question differently, or have never asked it at all.

September 5th, 2018

Traditional as Modern

Posted in Quilting

  • Exhibits
  • Inspiration
  • Modern quilting
  • Traditional quilting

Those of you who have been following me for a while know that I’m not a big fan of the tension between traditional and modern quilting. I’ve made traditional. I’ve made modern. I’ve made modern with traditional. I’ve made a lot of things that are just quilts. I spend more time with a modern guild and modern quilters, but it’s not at the expense of respecting and learning from traditional sources. I think that we as quilters and people are better for acknowledging that both sides (and everything in between) have much to bring to our craft and art.

In my Web wanderings recently, I came across a digitized collection of early 20th century quilt design paintings. The 419 watercolor paintings were done by Virginia Beauchamp around 1919-1923, but many depict quilts from the previous century. What drew me into the collection was how her framing and cropping of the quilt down to the desired design motif is incredibly similar to how we often make modern traditional quilts.

Sometimes it’s as simple as taking a traditional quilt design and making it in solids.

Quilt Pattern 186: Shell / cumulus from color continuum — no. 01 monochromatic by Emily Cier
Quilt Pattern 186: Shell /
cumulus from color continuum — no. 01 monochromatic by Emily Cier
Quilt Pattern 026: Streak of Lightning / Stacked Zigzags by Rebecca @alreadyinmypjs
Quilt Pattern 026: Streak of Lightning /
Stacked Zigzags by Rebecca @alreadyinmypjs

Other times, we take a single block and make it very large.

Quilt Pattern 221: Sunflower / Giant Starburst by Megan Pitz
Quilt Pattern 221: Sunflower /
Giant Starburst by Megan Pitz
Quilt Pattern 256 / Fly Away by Heather Jones Studio
Quilt Pattern 256 /
Fly Away by Heather Jones Studio
Quilt Pattern 175 / Tribute Star by Becca Bryan
Quilt Pattern 175 /
Tribute Star by Becca Bryan

Some of the paintings go beyond depicting what we call modern traditional and straight into modern.

We break the grid.

Quilt Pattern 28 / F*ck The Quilt Police by Nancy Purvis
Quilt Pattern 28 /
F*ck The Quilt Police by Nancy Purvis
Quilt Pattern 273 / Flight Quilt by Alexis Deise
Quilt Pattern 273 /
Flight Quilt by Alexis Deise
Quilt Pattern 320: Blazing Star / Luxe in Bloom Lone Star by Amy Friend
Quilt Pattern 320: Blazing Star /
Luxe in Bloom Lone Star by Amy Friend

We decompose the design in places.

Quilt Pattern 12 / State of Being by Cheryl Brickey
Quilt Pattern 12 /
State of Being by Cheryl Brickey
Quilt Pattern 38 / Quilt from Strip Your Stash by Gudrun Erla
Quilt Pattern 38 /
Quilt from Strip Your Stash by Gudrun Erla
Quilt Pattern 67 / Contrast by Linda Miller
Quilt Pattern 67 /
Contrast by Linda Miller

We use negative space to great effect.

Quilt Pattern 111 / Echoes by Leanne Chahley
Quilt Pattern 111 /
Echoes by Leanne Chahley
Quilt Pattern 96: Jacob’s Ladder / Migration by Season Evans
Quilt Pattern 96: Jacob’s Ladder /
Migration by Season Evans

This collection has left me inspired with ideas of quilts to make for years to come. I hope you find similar inspiration.

Quilt Pattern 224
Quilt Pattern 224

Further reading:

More about the collection at the Onondaga County Public Library

The digitized collection from New York Heritiage Digital Collections

Thanks to Barbara Brackman for posting about this originally

June 18th, 2016

Worth & Mainbocher Online Exhibit

Posted in Finding

  • Couture
  • Exhibits
  • Fashion
  • Victorian

The Museum of the City of New York has an absolutely wonderful exhibit online at the moment: Worth & Mainbocher, featuring photos and information on many garments by these two master couture houses.

It’s a dangerous time-sink, with the ability to do some very super zooming on many of the garments—you can really see the details. Some even include shots of the interior. I love it. The interface is a bit clunky and slow otherwise, but don’t let that deter you.

I have no doubt that if you’ve seen a Worth gown (I’m not as familiar with Mainbocher), you’ve wanted to see how it was constructed—this gives you the opportunity to get up close. They even have the famous “Electric Light” fancy dress gown worn by Mrs. Vanderbilt II (complete with photos of the inner bodice).

So really, just get over there already.

April 18th, 2012

Charles James: Genius Deconstructed in Chicago

Posted in Finding

  • Couture
  • Exhibits
  • Fashion
  • Interesting link

I wish I’d learned about this before our trip to MO, because we could have swung through Chicago, but for those of you who can get to Chicago before April 16, 2012, there is a fabulous exhibition of couture fashion by Charles James at the Chicago History Museum.

Now, while I love looking at designer clothing, gowns alone won’t usually inspire me to want to trek halfway across the country for an exhibit, but this is more than just a show of his designs. The curating team used advanced imaging techniques and intense study of the construction of three iconic dresses in order to show visitors how the gowns are structured—and James’ designs are often very complex in structure. There are also touchable displays—the team painstakingly created prototypes of different aspects of the construction.

January 20th, 2012

 

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